La Résidence Hôtel & Spa 5 Le Loi Street (84) 054 3837 475 website
Truong Dinh Street runs parallel to Le Loi, just near the Saigon Morin Hotel, and is a quiet strip simmering with locals sipping coffee and tucking into delicious plates and bowls of goodies. Not a tourist in sight. Ba Hoa, on this particular visit, was the busiest place on the street. Judging purely on visuals, it’s just like any run-of-the-mill local eatery across the country. Bare concrete walls, plastic chairs, a bit grotty and that ubiquitous condiment caddy on each table. Additional to the condiments is a small plate of banh lot loc and a bulb of fresh garlic, just in case you feel like messing up your breath for the rest of the day.
Ba Hoa 11 Truong Dinh Street (84) 054 833 043
It’s a nice enough restaurant, very clean and service was attentive only when they were done waiting on the bus load. After being told the luon xao sa ot (boneless eel) wasn’t available I settled on banh Hue, a plate of banana-wrapped rice patties filled with finely chopped spiced shrimp. We were both confused when the heo nuong was delivered. What was meant to be slices of pork, skewered and char-grilled took on the form of a rather saucy tangle of pork that never quite made it onto a skewer or anywhere near a barbecue. Even when questioned, we were told that is what it is.
Towards the end of our ordinary meal half of the old German dudes decided to come out on the balcony and light up cigars a metre from our table. Typically oblivious of their actions, we took that as our queue to pay up and get the hell out.
An Binh (recommended by Lonely Planet, not recommended by heneedsfood) 65 Vo Thi Sau (84) 054 825 305
Ngu Uyen 3 Dien Bien Phu Street 054 362 6533
Restaurant Bun Bo Thuong Tu 8 Dinh Tien Hoang Street 054 357 1128
Lac Thien 6 Dinh Tien Hoang Street 0543 527 348
If anyone’s planning a trip to Hue I’d strongly suggest stopping by this “com hen” street. A visit to this town wouldn’t be complete without it.